QUESTIONS
Wiring a cooker via an isolating switch - which is the load and which is the feed?
Updated 07/26
By: Laura Macdonald
Reviewed: Content Team
The feed is the cable coming from your fuse board (or consumer unit) that supplies power to the isolator switch. The load is the cable running onward from the isolator switch to the cooker itself. Getting these the right way round matters, and so does everything around them, which is why this isn't a job to guess your way through.
Which terminal is the feed and which is the load
Why cookers use a specific type of isolator switch
The safe isolation steps that matter more than labelling
Why labelling alone isn't something to rely on
What certification this work needs
When to bring in a qualified electrician
Find an electrician near you
Which is the load and which is the feed?
When wiring a cooker via an isolating switch:
The feed is the cable from your fuse board, supplying power into the isolator switch.
The load is the cable running out from the isolator switch to the cooker, live once the switch is turned on.
On most switches, the feed connects at the top and the load at the bottom, but this isn't universal. Different manufacturers arrange terminals differently, so always check the printed labelling on the specific switch in front of you rather than assuming it follows the usual layout.
Terminal labelling varies enough between brands that people occasionally get it wrong even when they're experienced. Never rely on "it's usually this way round" as your only check.
Why does a cooker need a special isolator switch?
Cookers aren't wired through a standard light switch or plug. They typically sit on their own dedicated circuit and use a 45A double pole (DP) switch, rated well above a standard socket switch to handle the higher current a cooker draws. "Double pole" means the switch disconnects both the live and neutral conductors together, which is considered the safest way to fully isolate a fixed, high-load appliance like a cooker, oven, or hob.
Many cooker switches include a neon indicator light that glows when the circuit is live. This is a useful visual reminder, but it should never be treated as a substitute for a proper safe isolation check. Neon indicators can fail or give a false reading, so the isolator being switched off (and the neon being unlit) isn't sufficient confirmation on its own that the circuit is safe to work on.
If you're adding a second oven or splitting a hob and oven onto separate isolators, the wiring arrangement gets more involved than a standard single-appliance setup. See our guide on adding a second oven and whether you'll need further electrics if that's your situation.
Why this isn't a job to guess at
Faulty electrical installations are a genuine cause of injury and fire, which is exactly why the government introduced Part P into the Building Regulations, to protect homeowners from unsafe electrical work. Wiring a cooker circuit typically counts as notifiable work under these rules. Our guide to getting a Part P certificate explains what that involves.
Before anyone works on these terminals, the circuit needs to be properly isolated at the consumer unit and then proven dead using an approved voltage tester, not just switched off at the local isolator and assumed safe. This is standard safe working practice for any fixed wiring, and it's not optional, however confident you feel about which terminal is which.
On Checkatrade, you'll only find trades who meet our high standards and pass up to 12 checks.
Can I wire my own cooker?
If you have genuine electrical experience and are confident doing so, you're permitted to carry out the work yourself. But it must still be inspected and signed off by a Part P certified electrician afterwards, since the compliance requirement applies to the finished installation, not just who physically did the wiring.
For most people, it's simpler and safer to have a qualified electrician handle the whole job, including confirming the correct cable size for your cooker's power rating. Our guide on what size cable a cooker needs is a useful starting point if you want to understand what your electrician should be specifying.
Electrician hourly rates in the UK in 2026
From installing a light fixture to rewiring an entire house – the list of jobs a qualified electrician can help with are endless. Read the latest guidelines and advice in this comprehensive cost guide.
Before any work starts
Frequently asked questions
Usually, but not always. It varies by manufacturer, so always check the printed labelling on your specific switch rather than assuming.
Cookers draw significantly more current than standard sockets, and a double pole switch disconnects both live and neutral together, which is the safest way to fully isolate a high-load, fixed appliance.
No. A neon indicator is a helpful visual reminder, but it can fail or mislead, so it should never replace proper isolation at the consumer unit and testing with an approved voltage tester.
Yes, if you're genuinely competent, but the finished work must still be inspected and signed off by a Part P certified electrician, since that's a compliance requirement on the installation itself.
Typically yes, which is why Part P certification applies. See our Part P certificate guide for what that process involves.
Related guides
Find an electrician near you
See the tradespeople we've checked for your job