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That steady drip, drip, drip from the kitchen tap at 2am is one of those small problems that's surprisingly easy to fix - once you know what's actually wrong.

In most cases, it comes down to one worn part: a washer, a cartridge or an O-ring, none of which cost more than a few pounds to replace.

This guide walks through how to diagnose the cause, fix it yourself with basic tools, and know when it's genuinely a job for a professional instead.

Why is my tap dripping?

Before you pick up a screwdriver, it helps to know what's actually failing inside the tap. The cause usually depends on where the water is escaping from.

• Dripping from the spout - almost always a worn rubber washer (traditional taps) or a worn ceramic disc cartridge (modern mixer taps)

• Leaking from underneath the handle - usually a perished O-ring around the spindle

• Leaking from the base of the spout - typically the spout O-ring, not the main valve

• Dripping that won't stop no matter what you replace - possibly a damaged valve seat, which is a trickier fix

But if you're seeing other symptoms too - a stiff handle, a noisy tap, or water coming out of two places at once - it's worth reading our guide to fixing common tap problems for a wider run-through of causes.

What you'll need before you start

Gathering everything up front saves you a trip back and forth to the shed halfway through. Make sure you've got to hand a:

• Adjustable spanner (ideally two)

• Flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers

• Replacement washer, O-ring or cartridge (matched to your tap - more on this below)

• PTFE tape

• A cloth or towel, and something to plug the sink

• Old toothbrush or cloth for cleaning off limescale

There's no single universal washer size, so it's worth removing the old one and taking it to a hardware shop to match it up, rather than guessing.

Most tap washers range from around 9mm to 40mm, and fitting the wrong size is one of the most common reasons a "fixed" tap starts dripping again within a few weeks.

How to fix a dripping tap step by step

Step 1 - Turn off the water supply

Locate the isolation valve under the sink, or your main stopcock if there isn't one, and turn the water off. Then open the tap fully to drain any water left in the pipe - skip this step and you'll get a faceful the moment you loosen anything.

If you're not sure where your isolation valve is, our guide on how to turn off the water under a sink covers it in more detail.

Step 2 - Protect the sink and remove the handle

Put the plug in (or lay a cloth over the drain) so you don't lose any small screws down the plughole.

Most taps have a decorative cap on top, hiding the fixing screw. Gently prise this off with a flat-head screwdriver, then undo the screw underneath and lift the handle away.

Step 3 - Access the internal parts

With the handle off, you'll usually find a retaining nut holding the headgear or cartridge in place.

Use an adjustable spanner to loosen it - holding the tap body steady with a second spanner or a cloth-wrapped grip so you don't scratch or twist the fittings.

Step 4 - Replace the worn part

What you replace here depends on your tap type:

• Traditional taps (separate hot/cold): unscrew the headgear and you'll see the washer at the bottom, held by a small nut. Swap it for a new one of the same size, along with the O-ring if it looks worn or cracked

• Modern mixer taps with a ceramic disc cartridge: the whole cartridge usually lifts or unscrews out as one unit. Take it with you when buying a replacement, as cartridges aren't as universal as washers

• Leaking from the base of the spout: the fix is usually the spout O-ring rather than anything inside the main valve - this involves lifting the spout off rather than dismantling the handle

Step 5 - Reassemble and test

Work back through the steps in reverse, wrapping any threaded joints in PTFE tape as you go.

Turn the water supply back on gradually and check for leaks around the joints before turning the handle fully. Run the tap for a minute or two - a genuine fix should leave it completely dry and silent.

Still dripping after the repair?

If the drip continues after you've replaced the washer or cartridge, the valve seat is the next suspect.

This is the surface the washer presses against to form a seal, and if it's scored, pitted or corroded, a new washer won't seal properly against it.

Reseating a valve seat is possible with a valve seat dressing tool, but it's easy to get wrong - and getting it wrong can mean the tap never seals properly again.

This is usually the point where it's worth weighing up a repair against simply replacing the tap altogether, particularly if the tap is more than five or six years old.

Tap repair and replacement cost calculator

Not sure whether your tap is worth repairing or replacing?

Try Checkatrade's AI-assisted job estimator below to compare the cost of repair versus replacement. It will give you a guide price based on real Checkatrade job data.

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Or for an exact quote, download our free mobile app to connect with checked and reviewed plumbers covering your local area.

How much does it cost to fix or replace a tap?

A DIY repair with a new washer, O-ring or cartridge typically costs a few pounds in parts.

But if you'd rather bring in a professional, a straightforward tap repair is usually charged at a plumber's standard hourly rate, roughly £50 per hour, and most repairs take an hour or less.

If the tap itself needs replacing rather than repairing, installing a new tap costs around £140 (labour only), rising depending on the tap type and whether isolation valves are already in place.

For full pricing, including materials, our tap installation cost guide has all the details.

How much does tap installation cost in 2026?

Whether you're looking to get an outdoor tap installed, want new taps for your bathroom as part of a renovation, or are planning to replace your old taps to make a quick difference to your kitchen, we've set out the average prices for tap installation to give you an overview.

Learn more

When to call a plumber instead

Some tap problems are safe and simple to DIY. Others are a sign of something bigger, or just aren't worth the risk of getting wrong. Call a plumber if:

• The tap won't turn off fully, even after replacing internal parts

• You suspect the valve seat is damaged rather than just the washer

• The leak is coming from behind a wall or under a fixed cabinet

• Multiple taps in the house are affected, which can point to a wider plumbing issue

• You're not confident locating or operating your isolation valve or stopcock

For most tap jobs, either a local plumber or a general handyman can help.

A handyman is often the quicker, cheaper option for a simple washer or cartridge swap. A plumber is worth calling if there's any sign of a damaged valve seat, hidden pipework, or a leak that keeps coming back.

How to find a tradesperson for the job

If you'd rather not risk it yourself - or the drip has turned into something more stubborn - finding the right person for the job matters as much as the fix itself.

When you're comparing quotes, it's worth asking:

• Do they have experience with your specific tap type (traditional, mixer, or a specialist brand like Quooker)?

• Can they source the correct washer, cartridge or valve seat, or will you need to buy it in advance?

• Is there a call-out charge on top of the repair cost?

• Do they offer any guarantee on the work?

Why use Checkatrade to find plumbers near you?

• Checked - Every Checkatrade member must pass up to 12 checks and commit to upholding the Checkatrade Standard

• Reviewed - Over 6.2 million reviews have been published on Checkatrade on everything from communication, tidiness, timekeeping, and quality of work

• Guaranteed - Jobs booked through Checkatrade are covered up to £1,000 (T&Cs apply)

Request a quote, search in the Checkatrade app, or enter your postcode below to find local plumbers.

How to prevent your tap from dripping again

A few small habits go a long way toward avoiding a repeat drip:

• Avoid over-tightening the handle when turning the tap off - it's one of the fastest ways to wear out a washer early

• Descale taps regularly if you're in a hard water area, as limescale build-up accelerates wear on cartridges

• Fix small drips as soon as you notice them, rather than leaving them to wear down the valve seat

• If you're replacing a tap anyway, ask your plumber to fit isolation valves if they're not already there - it makes any future repair much quicker

Fixing a dripping tap checklist

• Water supply turned off

• Sink plugged or covered

• Tools and correct replacement parts ready

• Old washer or cartridge kept for size matching

• Photos taken as you dismantle the tap

• PTFE tape on hand for reassembly

FAQs about dripping taps

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