HOW-TO GUIDES

How to chase pipes into a wall

Updated 07/26

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Blog>How-To Guides>How to chase pipes into a wall

Learn how to chase pipes into a wall safely, the building regulation depth limits to follow, and how much a plumber typically charges for the job.

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This article can help you understand
  • Whether chasing, boxing in, or leaving pipes on show is right for your room

  • The building regulation depth limits you need to stick to

  • How radiator, waste and shower pipes each need different treatment

  • What tools and steps the job involves

  • How much it typically costs to have a plumber do it

  • How to disguise pipes you can't chase into a wall

Visible pipework running across a wall isn't the look most of us want in a finished room.

Chasing, cutting a channel into the wall so pipes sit flush behind the plaster, is the neatest fix, but it's a job that needs care, the right tools, and a clear understanding of building regulations before you start.

This guide covers how chasing works, what's different about radiator, waste and shower pipework, and when it's worth calling in a plumber rather than reaching for an angle grinder yourself.

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What is pipe chasing?

Chasing means cutting a channel into masonry or plaster so pipework can sit flush behind the wall surface rather than being visible in the room.

It's purely a cosmetic choice: the pipes still work exactly the same, they're just hidden from view.

If chasing isn't practical for your pipe run, the two main alternatives are:

  • Leaving pipes exposed, which can suit an industrial-style room

  • Boxing them in, which looks tidy if built properly and is the required approach for some waste pipework (more on that below)

Copper vs plastic pipes: Which is better?

Building regulation depth limits

Chasing removes material from a wall, which weakens its structure, so there are limits on how deep you can cut:

  • Vertical chases must not be deeper than a third of the wall's thickness (for a 100mm wall, that's a maximum of 33mm)

  • Horizontal chases must not be deeper than a sixth of the wall's thickness (for a 100mm wall, that's a maximum of 16mm), because a horizontal cut weakens a wall more than a vertical one

Always cut chases vertically or horizontally, never diagonally. This makes it far easier for anyone (including future you) to avoid driving a nail or screw straight through a hidden pipe.

Top Tip

If you're chasing both sides of the same wall, stagger the two chases so they don't line up back to back. Two aligned chases can leave almost no solid wall between them.

how to hide pipes

Tools you'll need

  • Safety goggles and gloves

  • A pipe and cable detector

  • An angle grinder with a cutting disc, or a dedicated chase-cutting tool

  • A cold chisel

  • Pipe clips

  • Foam pipe insulation or purpose-made pipe wrap

  • PVA bonding agent

  • Filler or one-coat plaster

How to chase pipes into a wall: step by step

Step 1: Check what's already there

Before cutting anything, scan the wall with a pipe and cable detector to confirm you're not about to cut through an existing pipe or electrical cable.

Step 2: Mark and cut the chase

Mark your chase lines with a pencil and tape measure, allowing enough width and depth for the pipe plus insulation and a covering of filler. Set your angle grinder's cutting discs to the correct depth, then run two parallel cuts along your marked lines.

Top Tip

Wear goggles and gloves throughout, and if your grinder supports it, attach a vacuum extractor to cut down on dust.

Step 3: Remove the waste material

Knock out the masonry between your two parallel cuts using a cold chisel. A dedicated chase-cutting tool, which fits an electric drill, makes this step faster and less physical if you're doing more than a short run.

Step 4: Fit and insulate the pipe

Lay the pipework into the chase and secure it with pipe clips. Wrap or insulate the pipe with foam covers or purpose-made pipe wrap so it never sits in direct contact with the filler, which can cause corrosion over time.

Leave room within the chase for the pipe to expand and contract slightly with temperature changes, and keep the number of joints or fittings inside the chase to a minimum. Any joint buried behind plaster is a joint you can't easily get to if it ever leaks.

Step 5: Fill and finish

Clear the chase of dust and debris, dampen the brickwork, then apply a coat of PVA to help the filler bond. Apply your filler or one-coat plaster in layers to avoid sagging.

Top Tip

Take a photo of the finished pipe run before plastering over it. It's the easiest way to know exactly where your pipes are if you ever need to drill into that wall again.

Plumber hub interlinking

This is a job that usually needs both a plumber for the pipework and a plasterer for the finish, so it's worth budgeting for both if you're not doing the making-good yourself.

chasing-out-wall-crack-with-chisel

Chasing different types of pipe

Radiator pipes

Chasing radiator pipes keeps a room looking tidy and removes a potential burn hazard for children and pets.

Use hair felt insulation around the pipework to reduce heat loss, and avoid placing any pipe joints inside the chase. Note that copper pipe can corrode if it sits directly against high-sulphur-content concrete, so ask your plumber to wrap the pipe in a protective layer if that applies to your walls.

Shower pipes

Shower pipework is chased in the same way as any other pipe run. Because bathroom walls are drilled into more often (for towel rails, mirrors, shelving), it's especially worth photographing the finished run before it's plastered over.

Waste pipes

Waste pipes are usually too wide to chase safely, since removing that much material seriously weakens the wall. Building regulations also state that waste pipes generally shouldn't sit in a cavity.

Boxing in is the standard approach for waste pipework, and chasing is really only suitable where a room is being finished with dot-and-dab plasterboard rather than solid plaster.

Heating pipes

Chase heating pipes using the same method as radiator pipework, adding hair felt insulation to limit heat loss through the wall.

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How to chase pipes into a wall

How much does it cost to chase pipes into a wall?

Pipe chasing is typically charged as part of a wider plumbing job rather than priced on its own, since it involves both a plumber's time for the pipework and making-good afterwards.

As a general benchmark, plumbers typically charge around £50 per hour or £350 per day, with a call-out charge of around £110 often added on top.

For bigger projects that involve rerouting pipework, such as a full bathroom re-plumb, see our plumbing installation cost guide for a fuller picture of what to budget for.

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How to hide pipes you can't chase

Not every pipe run can be chased, especially wider waste pipes or those in a cavity wall. If chasing isn't an option, consider:

  • Boxing pipes in for a neat, streamlined finish

  • Painting pipes the same colour as the wall to camouflage them

  • Concealing them behind furniture, a curtain, or a worktop

  • Making a feature of them with a polished, industrial look

For exterior pipework, boxing in and painting to match the render, or screening with a trellis and climbing plants, are common options.

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Should you chase pipes yourself?

Chasing pipes isn't the most technically difficult plumbing job, but it sits at the intersection of plumbing and structural work.

Get the depth wrong and you weaken the wall, get the insulation wrong and you risk corrosion or a cold pipe run. Any mistake here is hidden behind plaster once it's done.

For most homeowners, it's worth having a plumber handle the pipework and a plasterer finish the wall.

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Pipe chasing checklist

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Pipe chasing checklist

FAQs

  • Vertical chases can go up to a third of the wall's thickness, while horizontal chases are limited to a sixth, since a horizontal cut weakens a wall more. For a standard 100mm wall, that's a maximum of 33mm for a vertical chase and 16mm for a horizontal one.

  • Not usually. Waste pipes are typically too wide to chase without seriously weakening the wall, and building regulations generally require waste pipes not to sit in a cavity. Boxing in is the standard solution instead.

  • There's no single fixed price, since it's usually charged as part of a broader plumbing job. As a benchmark, plumbers typically charge around £50 an hour or £350 a day, plus a call-out fee of roughly £110. See our plumbing installation cost guide for larger project costs.

  • You'll usually need a plumber for the pipework itself, and often a plasterer or builder to finish the wall afterwards. It's a job that combines plumbing, cutting into masonry, and plastering, so many people prefer to have a professional handle the whole process.

  • Yes, copper pipe can corrode if it comes into direct contact with high-sulphur-content concrete. If this applies to your walls, ask your plumber to wrap the pipe in a protective layer before chasing it in.

  • Yes. Chase depth limits exist specifically to protect the structural integrity of the wall, and other Building Regulations requirements apply depending on the type of pipework and the wall construction. A qualified plumber or builder will know how these apply to your property.

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