HOW-TO GUIDES

How to screed a floor

Updated 06/26

How to screed a floor

By: Content Team

Reviewed: Laura Macdonald

Blog>How-To Guides>How to screed a floor

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If you've ever walked across a floor and noticed dips, bumps or uneven patches beneath your feet, chances are the screed underneath wasn't quite right.

A properly screeded floor creates the smooth, level surface that your final flooring sits on.

Get it right and your tiles, laminate, vinyl or carpet will have a stable base. Get it wrong and you could end up with cracking, movement, uneven finishes and expensive remedial work.

This article can help you understand
  • What floor screeding involves

  • The different types of screed available

  • Bonded vs unbonded vs floating screed

  • How to screed a floor step-by-step

  • Floor screed thickness requirements

  • How long screed takes to dry

  • Common screeding mistakes

  • When it's worth hiring a professional

The good news is that screeding isn't impossible for experienced DIYers.

The catch is that it often looks easier than it is. Many DIYers only realise how demanding screeding can be once they're trying to keep a large area level before the mix starts setting.

This guide explains how to screed a floor, the different types of screed available, common mistakes to avoid, and when it's worth calling in a professional.

Quick answer: How do you screed a floor?

In simple terms, screeding involves:

  • Preparing and cleaning the subfloor

  • Installing any membranes or insulation required

  • Mixing the screed correctly

  • Pouring and levelling the screed

  • Compacting and smoothing the surface

  • Allowing sufficient drying and curing time

The exact process depends on whether you're laying bonded, unbonded, floating or self-levelling screed.

Top Tip

For larger areas, underfloor heating systems or projects where levels need to be absolutely precise, professional installation is usually recommended.

What is floor screed?

Floor screed is a layer of material applied over a structural floor (usually concrete).

Its job is to create a smooth, level surface ready for the final floor finish.

Screed is commonly used beneath:

  • Tiles

  • Laminate flooring

  • Vinyl flooring

  • Engineered wood flooring

  • Carpet

Think of screed as the layer that corrects imperfections before the visible flooring goes down.

Laying floor screed

What type of screed do you need?

Choosing the right screed is often the first challenge.

Traditional sand and cement screed

This is the most common option in UK homes.

It's made from cement, sharp sand and water and is suitable for most domestic projects.

Best for:

  • General floor levelling

  • New extensions

  • Renovations

  • Small-to-medium projects

Self-levelling screed

Often called liquid screed or flowing screed.

It naturally finds its own level, making it quicker to install and particularly useful over large areas.

Best for:

Fibre-reinforced screed

Contains polypropylene fibres to help reduce shrinkage and cracking.

Best for:

Fast-drying screed

Designed to reduce waiting times before floor coverings are installed.

Best for:

  • Time-sensitive projects

  • Commercial environments

  • Renovations on tight schedules

New screed in house renovation

Bonded vs unbonded vs floating screed

This is one of the most common points of confusion.

Bonded screed

  • Installed onto: Directly onto concrete substrate

  • Typical use: Thin applications and high-strength requirements

Unbonded screed

  • Installed onto: Damp-proof membrane

  • Typical use: Protection from moisture

Floating screed

  • Installed onto: Insulation layer

  • Typical use: Underfloor heating and insulated floors

Top Tip

Many homeowners assume all screed is the same. In reality, the type of screed and installation method can significantly affect thickness, drying times and long-term performance.

Floor screed thickness guide

The correct thickness will depend on the screed type being used.

As a guide, the minimum floor screed thickness is typically:

  • Bonded screed: 25mm–40mm

  • Unbonded screed: 50mm+

  • Floating screed: 65mm–75mm

  • Underfloor heating screed: usually 65mm–75mm

However, it's always best to check the manufacturer's guidance for your chosen product.

Screed floor cost guide

Tools and materials you'll need

For most screeding projects you'll need:

  • Floor screed

  • Screed board

  • Sugar soap

  • Duct tape

  • Straight edge

  • Spirit level

  • Float

  • Trowel

  • Hand tamper

  • Chipping hammer

  • Chisel

  • Shovel or mixing equipment

  • Edging foam

  • Wood battens

  • Polypropylene fibres (where required)

  • Damp-proof membrane (for unbonded screed)

  • Bonding agent (for bonded screed)

For larger projects, many professionals use forced-action mixers rather than standard free-fall mixers to achieve a more consistent mix.

Leveling floor screeding

How to screed a floor

Screeding a floor isn't the most technically complicated job you'll ever tackle, but getting a smooth, level finish takes patience, accuracy and a bit of practice.

Most problems happen because the preparation wasn't quite right, the screed wasn't compacted properly, or the floor wasn't given enough time to cure. If you're planning to tackle the job yourself, here's the typical process.

Step 1: Prepare the subfloor

Before any screed goes down, the floor needs to be clean, stable and free from dust. This usually involves:

  • Removing existing floor coverings

  • Sweeping and vacuuming thoroughly

  • Repairing any major cracks or loose areas

  • Checking the floor is structurally sound

  • Fitting edging strip or foam around the perimeter of the room

If you're laying screed over underfloor heating, insulation boards or a damp-proof membrane, these should also be installed before screeding begins.

Top Tip

Most screed failures start with poor preparation rather than poor screeding. Spending extra time getting the subfloor ready is rarely wasted.

Step 2: Decide whether you're using bonded or unbonded screed

The preparation method depends on the type of screed you're installing. Bonded screed is applied directly onto the concrete subfloor. It's commonly used where floor build-up needs to be kept to a minimum.

To prepare for bonded screed:

  • Roughen the concrete surface to improve adhesion

  • Remove all dust and debris

  • Lightly dampen the substrate if recommended

  • Apply a bonding slurry or bonding agent according to the manufacturer's instructions

Unbonded screed sits on top of a damp-proof membrane rather than bonding directly to the concrete beneath.

To prepare for unbonded screed:

  • Lay a polythene damp-proof membrane across the floor

  • Overlap membrane joints by approximately 250mm and secure them with duct tape

  • Turn the membrane slightly up the walls

  • Install perimeter edging strip to allow for movement

Top Tip

Always follow the guidance for your chosen screed product. Different manufacturers may have slightly different requirements for preparation and installation.

Step 3: Mix the screed correctly

Whether you're using traditional sand and cement screed or a proprietary screed mix, getting the consistency right is important. The screed should be:

  • Workable enough to spread and compact

  • But not so wet that it becomes difficult to level or prone to shrinkage

Top Tip

For larger projects, many professionals use forced-action mixers. Free-fall mixers can create inconsistent mixes and small clumps of material. A forced action mixer uses paddles to evenly mix the materials together.

Step 4: Lay and level the screed

Once the screed is mixed, it's time to start laying it. Working in manageable sections:

  • Place screed between level guides or battens

  • Spread it evenly using a trowel

  • Compact it thoroughly to remove air pockets using a hand tamper

  • Use a straight edge or screed board to strike off excess material

  • Fill any low spots as you go

  • Smooth the surface with a float

Continue working methodically across the floor until the entire area is level. If you're using battens as guides, remove them once adjacent sections have been completed and fill the gaps with fresh screed.

Top Tip

Professional screeders constantly check levels as they work. It's much easier to correct small dips and high spots immediately than after the screed has started curing.

Levelling screed flooring

Step 5: Compact the screed properly

Compaction is one of the most important stages of the process and is often underestimated by DIYers. Without proper compaction:

  • The screed can weaken over time

  • Cracks may develop

  • Hollow spots can form beneath the surface

  • Flooring installed later may become uneven

Take your time during this stage. A floor that looks level but hasn't been compacted properly can still cause problems later.

Step 6: Allow the screed to cure

Once the screed has been laid and levelled, it needs time to gain strength. Depending on the product you're using, this may involve:

  • Covering the screed with polythene sheeting

  • Protecting it from draughts and direct sunlight

  • Avoiding foot traffic

  • Following the manufacturer's curing guidance

It's important to remember that drying and curing aren't the same thing. Even if the surface feels dry, the screed underneath may still be developing strength.

Top Tip

One of the most common causes of cracking is allowing screed to dry too quickly. Following the curing guidance carefully can make a big difference to the finished result.

How long does floor screed take to dry?

This is where expectations often differ from reality.

As a rough guide:

Traditional sand and cement screed

  • Walkable: Approximately 24-48 hours

  • Drying: Around 1 day per mm up to 40mm thickness

Liquid screed

  • Walkable: Typically 24-48 hours

  • Floor coverings: Often 3-6 weeks

Fast-drying screed

Can be ready for flooring in a matter of days, depending on the product

Top Tip

Just because screed feels dry on the surface doesn't mean it's ready for flooring. Moisture testing is often needed before installing floor coverings.

Screed drying

Best screed for underfloor heating

Underfloor heating places extra demands on a screed floor.

Fibre-reinforced screeds and liquid screeds are often preferred because they:

  • Reduce shrinkage

  • Minimise cracking

  • Flow around heating pipes more effectively

  • Distribute heat evenly

Poor screeding around underfloor heating is one of the most common causes of cracking later on.

Screed over underfloor heating

Can you screed a garage floor?

Yes. In fact, garage floors are one of the most common places screed is used.

You might choose to screed a garage floor if:

  • The existing concrete is uneven

  • You're converting the garage into living space

  • You want to install tiles or another floor finish

  • The floor has minor surface damage, pitting or imperfections

Garage floors often need a slightly different approach because they may be exposed to:

  • Vehicle loads

  • Moisture

  • Temperature changes

If you're screeding a garage that will continue to be used for parking vehicles, it's worth speaking to a flooring specialist or screeding contractor about the most suitable screed type and thickness for the expected loads.

Top Tip

If you're planning a garage conversion, screeding is often completed before insulation, underfloor heating or final floor coverings are installed. Getting the floor levels right at this stage can make the rest of the project much easier.

Five screeding mistakes that cause cracked floors

Most screed failures come back to a handful of common issues, including:

  1. Adding too much water: weakens the screed and increases shrinkage

  2. Poor subfloor preparation: contamination can prevent proper bonding

  3. Incorrect thickness: too thin and the screed may crack

  4. Insufficient compaction: creates weak spots and voids

  5. Drying too quickly: rapid drying often leads to shrinkage cracks

Cracked floor screed

What happens if screed dries too quickly?

Many DIYers focus heavily on installation but overlook curing.

The trouble is, when screed dries too quickly:

  • Cracking becomes more likely

  • Surface strength can reduce

  • Uneven drying may occur

  • Final floor finishes can be affected

This is one reason professionals often cover screed during the curing period.

Can you screed a floor yourself — and should you?

Screeding isn't impossible as a DIY project. However, it requires accuracy, preparation and confidence.

DIY screeding is usually manageable if:

  • You're working in a small area

  • Levels aren't critical

  • You're experienced with DIY projects

  • You're using self-levelling compounds

It's usually worth hiring a professional if:

  • The area is large

  • Underfloor heating is involved

  • The floor finish needs to be perfect

  • You're working to tight deadlines

  • Multiple rooms are involved

Top Tip

The actual screeding often isn't the hardest part. Getting the levels perfect across an entire room is where experience really shows.

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What do professional screeders do differently?

One reason professional screeding often produces better results is that experienced contractors approach the job differently.

Screeding contractors typically:

  • Use laser levels for accuracy

  • Calculate thickness requirements precisely

  • Use specialist mixing equipment

  • Monitor moisture levels properly

  • Understand drying and curing conditions

  • Spot potential problems before they occur

That's why professional screeding often pays for itself by avoiding the risk of costly flooring issues later.

Floor screeding being laid

How much does professional screeding cost?

As a rough guide, floor screeding costs average around £33 per m². This includes materials and labour.

Bear in mind, the price you're quoted for floor screeding will depend on the room size, screed type, thickness, ease of access and labour rates in your area. Our floor screeding cost guide has more detailed information.

Thinking about hiring a professional?

Here’s what recent Checkatrade customers said about hiring a screeding contractor:

“Wow these guys from start to finish were amazing, so easy to talk through my project, super responsive, always on hand when I needed something and the work was fantastic, I can’t recommend Daniel and he’s team enough 10/10.” Verified reviewer, DAC Home Solutions, (Location E2)

“The job was completed quickly and without any issues. Communication was straightforward and they were easy to deal with. The rates were very reasonable and everything was handled professionally. Appreciate the service – thank you.” Verified reviewer, AJ Flooring London Ltd, (Location SE25)

Find floor screeding specialists near you

If you'd rather leave the levelling, mixing and drying calculations to an expert, a professional screeder can help ensure your floor is level, stable and ready for your chosen floor finish.

With Checkatrade, tradespeople are:

  • Checked - Every Checkatrade member must pass up to 12 checks and commit to upholding the Checkatrade Standard

  • Reviewed - Over 6.2 million reviews have been published on Checkatrade about real jobs, on everything from communication, tidiness, timekeeping, and quality of work

  • Guaranteed - Jobs booked through Checkatrade are covered up to £1,000 (T&Cs apply)

Enter your postcode to connect with reputable screeding companies near you.

Find a screeding expert near you

FAQs

  • Small screeding projects can be manageable for experienced DIYers, but achieving a perfectly level finish across larger areas is much more challenging.

  • As a general rule, bonded screed should be at least 25mm thick, unbonded screed at least 50mm, and floating screed at least 65mm.

  • Typical screed thickness ranges from 25mm to 75mm depending on the screed type and application.

  • Traditional screed generally dries at around 1 day per millimetre up to 40mm thickness, although conditions and products vary.

  • Fibre-reinforced screed and liquid screed are often preferred because they reduce cracking and distribute heat effectively.

  • Yes, bonded screed is designed to be applied directly onto a prepared concrete substrate using an appropriate bonding agent.

  • Rapid drying can cause cracking, shrinkage and reduced strength, which may affect the finished floor later on.

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