We’ve put together this guide with step-by-step instructions to show you how to fit a tap. We’ll also be answering all your FAQs.

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A dripping, dated, or broken tap is one of those jobs that looks simple until you're halfway through it with the stopcock shut off and water still trickling out somewhere.

Fitting a new tap yourself is achievable if you're reasonably confident with tools and comfortable working with your home's water supply - but it's also a job where a small mistake means a leak you don't spot until it's caused damage.

This guide walks through fitting kitchen taps, bathroom and bath taps, mixer taps, and outside taps, plus the tools you'll need and the point at which it's worth calling in a professional instead.

Before you start: tools and safety

Whatever type of tap you're fitting, a few basics apply across the board.

Tools you'll typically need:

• Adjustable spanner or basin wrench

• Screwdriver

• Water pump pliers

• PTFE tape

• Pipe cutter (for copper pipework)

• A bowl or towels to catch residual water

Before you touch anything:

• Turn off the water supply at the isolation valves under the sink, or at the stopcock if there are none.

• Open the taps fully to drain any water left in the pipes.

• Have a towel or bowl ready - there's almost always a small amount of water left in the pipework even after it's "off".

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How to fit a kitchen tap

1. Isolate the water and remove the old tap

Turn off the water, then use a wrench to unfasten the nuts connecting the supply pipes to the old tap, and the nut securing the tap to the sink.

2. Clean the area

Once the old tap is out, clear away any old sealant, limescale, or debris from around the tap holes so the new tap sits flush.

3. Check your fittings match

New taps usually come with 10mm connector pipes, which may need to step up to a 15mm supply pipe. If your existing pipework is copper and the new tap uses push-fit connectors, you may need an adaptor - or a reducing coupler if you're moving from two taps to a single monobloc tap.

4. Position the new tap

Feed the tap tails through the holes in the sink, fit the washers between the tap base and the sink surface, and secure everything from underneath with the back nut.

5. Connect the supply pipes

Push-fit plastic connectors are the simplest option for most DIYers. Copper pipework holds up better long-term in awkward spaces but needs soldering skills and a blowtorch to join it properly.

6. Turn the water back on gradually

Check every joint and connection closely for even the smallest drip before you consider the job finished.

If you're relining any pipework in copper rather than push-fit, our guide on how to solder copper pipes covers the technique in detail.

How much does tap installation cost in 2026?

Whether you're looking to get an outdoor tap installed, want new taps for your bathroom as part of a renovation, or are planning to replace your old taps to make a quick difference to your kitchen, we've set out the average prices for tap installation to give you an overview.

Learn more

How to fit a mixer tap

Mixer taps blend hot and cold water through a single spout, either via one lever or two separate controls.

The fitting process is similar to a standard kitchen or bathroom tap, with a couple of extra steps:

1. Remove the old tap and disconnect the hexagonal retaining nut.

2. Clean the area and check the tap tails sit securely in the tap body.

3. Attach the fixing studs to the base of the tap, then lower the tap into the sink or worktop's tap hole, feeding the studs and tails through.

4. Fit the retaining plate and washer from underneath, then thread the nuts onto the fixing studs.

5. Tighten the nuts with a spanner - carefully, so you don't crack the sink or worktop.

6. Turn the water supply back on and check thoroughly for leaks at every connector.

How to fit bath and basin taps

Fitting a bath or basin tap follows largely the same process as a kitchen tap, with a couple of practical differences.

First, work out which type of tap you have:

• Pillar taps - separate hot and cold taps.

• Mixer taps - a single tap blending hot and cold, sometimes with an integrated shower attachment (a bath shower mixer).

Wall-mounted, valve-operated, and freestanding bath fillers also exist but are less common and best left to a plumber if you're not familiar with them.

You'll usually need to remove the bath panel to access the pipework underneath. Acrylic panels typically clip into place; others are held with magnetic catches or screws.

From there, the steps mirror the kitchen tap process:

1. Isolate the water

2. Disconnect and remove the old tap

3. Clean the area

4. Check the condition of the pipes and fixings

5. Fit the new tap

6. Reconnect the supply

7. Test thoroughly for leaks before refitting the panel

How to fit an outside tap

Fitting an outside tap involves working through an exterior wall and tying into your mains supply, which makes it a slightly bigger job.

Tools you'll need: SDS drill, 18mm and 7mm SDS drill bits, pipe cutter, adjustable spanner, screwdriver, water pump pliers.

1. Plan the position. Choose a spot close to your internal mains supply to keep pipe runs short, and check there's nothing on the other side of the wall (cables, pipes) before you drill.

2. Drill through from outside. This helps prevent blowing out brickwork on the exterior face. Switch from hammer to standard drill mode for the last inch or so to reduce the risk of damage.

3. Fit the backplate. Feed the copper pipe through, mark and drill the fixing holes, then secure the backplate and tap to the wall.

4. Tie into the water supply. This is usually done by adding an elbow fitting to the internal copper pipe and connecting it into a tee fitting on your mains cold water supply.

5. Test for leaks by running the tap and checking every joint before considering the job done.

Drilling through an external wall or working near your mains supply isn't always straightforward - a plumber can fit an outside tap safely in an hour or two, and it's worth pairing the job with a check from a general builder if you're unsure about the wall itself.

Signs it's time to call a plumber instead

A few situations where it's worth handing this job over:

• You don't have isolation valves and would need to shut off the stopcock for the whole house

• Your pipework is in an unusual material (lead, old iron) or an awkward, hard-to-reach position

• You're fitting a monobloc tap and haven't worked with reducing couplers before

• You've fitted the tap but still have a persistent drip or leak after retightening the connections

• The job involves working through an external wall or tying into the mains

Persistent drips are usually simpler than they look - our guide to fixing common tap problems covers the most likely causes before you call anyone out.

Tap fitting checklist

• Turn off water and drain the taps

• Check pipe and fitting sizes match

• Fit washers and back nut correctly

• Connect supply pipes securely

• Turn water back on gradually

• Check every joint for leaks

Finding a tradesperson to fit your tap

If you'd rather not risk it, hiring a checked plumber removes the guesswork - and any work carried out by a Checkatrade member is covered by our guarantee, so you're protected if anything goes wrong.

You can check a tradesperson's profile, past jobs, and verified customer reviews before you book.

For a fuller picture of what professional fitting costs versus DIY, see our guide on tap installation costs.

On Checkatrade, you'll only find trades who meet our high standards and pass up to 12 checks.

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