EXPERT ADVICE
Why is my heating not working? Causes and solutions
Updated 08/26

By: Sarah P
Reviewed: Alex Peters
A cold house on a winter morning is never a good start to the day. Before you panic or book the first callout you can find, it's worth running through the usual suspects: most heating faults come down to a handful of causes, and several of them you can check yourself in minutes.
This guide walks through the most common reasons your heating stops working, what you can safely try first, and when it's time to bring in a professional.
What to check in the first five minutes of a heating breakdown
Whether it's your boiler, thermostat, or radiators at fault
What a smart thermostat could be hiding from you
When low pressure or an airlock is the culprit
Whether you need a plumber, a Gas Safe engineer, or both
How to stop the same fault happening again next winter
Common reasons your heating isn't working
Before diving into fixes, it helps to know what you're dealing with. Your heating may have stopped because of:
A boiler that needs resetting
A power supply problem
Thermostat or smart control issues
Incorrect timer settings
Low boiler pressure
A general boiler malfunction
Radiator problems (cold spots, stuck valves, sludge)
An airlock in the system
A frozen condensate pipe
An ageing boiler nearing the end of its life
Some of these are quick DIY fixes. Others need a Gas Safe heating engineer; especially anything involving gas, error codes, or a boiler that won't reset.
If you smell gas at any point, stop what you're doing and call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999 straight away.

1. Reset your boiler
The simplest fix is often the right one. Turn your boiler off and on again, or use the reset button on the front panel; check your manual if you're not sure which one it is.
Because gas central heating relies on electricity to run its controls and ignition, boilers are prone to the same minor glitches as any other electronic appliance. A reset clears most of these instantly.
If your boiler keeps locking out after a reset, stop resetting it repeatedly. Repeated resets can mask a fault for an hour or two before leaving you with a bigger repair bill, and a colder house.
2. Check for power supply problems
No power means no heating, so rule this out early. Check whether there's a power cut in your area, then check your fuse box and circuit breakers: a tripped switch is a common and easy fix.
If the power supply checks out and you still have no heating, it's time to call a boiler engineer.
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3. Check your thermostat, including smart controls
Start with the batteries, then check the temperature setting. If your thermostat is set below room temperature, your boiler has no reason to fire up.
Try setting it to 18-21°C or higher to trigger the boiler into action.
If you've got a smart thermostat like Hive, Nest, or tado, check the app before touching anything physical.
These systems cause a surprising number of false "boiler is broken" alarms: the schedule, override settings, or a lost connection to the receiver can all stop your heating firing even though the boiler itself is fine.
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4. Check your boiler timer
If your timer is set incorrectly, your heating simply won't come on when you expect it to.
Remember to adjust every clock in the house, including the boiler timer, when the clocks change. A worn-out or faulty timer can also drift out of sync over time, so if the times keep slipping, the timer itself may need replacing.
5. Rule out low boiler pressure
Low boiler pressure is one of the most common causes of a heating breakdown, and one of the easiest to fix yourself.
Your pressure gauge should read between 1 and 1.5 bar. If it's reading lower, locate the filling loop (usually a braided hose beneath the boiler) and slowly open the valves to let mains water back into the system, watching the gauge as you go. Close the valves once you hit around 1.2 bar, then reset the boiler.
If you're topping up the pressure regularly, that points to a leak somewhere in the system rather than a one-off drop; see the water leaks section below.
6. Look for boiler malfunctions
Pressure isn't the only thing that can go wrong with a boiler. Other common issues include:
Error codes. Check the display panel and your manual: some codes point to a fix you can do yourself, others need an engineer
A loose heating element. A humming noise often points to this
A blown pilot light. Check your manual for relighting instructions, but call a Gas Safe engineer if it keeps going out
A stuck diverter valve. On combi boilers over 8-10 years old especially, a diverter valve failure is one of the more common causes of hot water with no heating (or vice versa)
A Gas Safe engineer is the right person for any fault beyond a simple reset. Find out how to locate a qualified boiler repair engineer.

7. Check your radiators
Radiator problems can leave you with a working boiler but a cold house. Common causes include:
Cold spots, especially at the top. This usually means trapped air: bleeding the radiator often solves it
A stuck Thermostatic Radiator Valve (TRV). Gently turn the valve to check it isn't jammed shut
A worn circulating pump. If the pump can't push water through the system properly, a professional fix is the safest route
Sludge or debris build-up. This restricts water flow to the radiator over time
Younger radiators are usually worth flushing out. Older ones may be more cost-effective to replace; see how much it costs to remove and replace a radiator for a guide to pricing.
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8. Rule out an airlock
Trapped air in your pipes or radiators is a common and often overlooked cause of heating failure. Look out for gurgling sounds, patchy cold radiators, or a system that's switched on but producing no heat at all.
Bleeding the radiators or flushing the system usually clears an airlock. If it doesn't, find a qualified tradesperson to take a closer look.
9. Check for a frozen condensate pipe
In cold UK winters, a frozen condensate pipe is a classic cause of a boiler that simply won't fire up.
Even a small amount of frozen water can block the pipe entirely. Thaw it gently using warm (never boiling) water poured over the affected section, and your heating should come back on once the ice clears.
10. Consider the age of your boiler
Most boilers last 10-15 years. If yours is creeping towards that age and you're noticing higher energy bills, strange noises, or repeat breakdowns, it may be nearing the end of its working life rather than suffering a one-off fault.

Other possible causes if you're still stuck
If none of the above fits, a few less common culprits are worth ruling out:
Blocked or dirty filters
Clogged filters restrict airflow and hurt your system's energy efficiency. Many are simple enough to clean or replace yourself.
Faulty zone valves
Zone valves control which parts of your home get heated. When one sticks or fails, you'll typically notice inconsistent heating: some rooms warm, others stone cold.
A failing expansion vessel
The expansion vessel absorbs the extra pressure created as water heats up. When it fails, pressure can swing unpredictably and trigger repeated lockouts even after you've topped up the system.
Water leaks in the system
If your boiler keeps losing pressure no matter how often you top it up, a leak somewhere in the system is the likely cause. Check around the boiler and visible pipework for damp patches or drips, and call a heating engineer if you can't find the source yourself.

Depending on the cause, you might need a heating engineer for a boiler fault, a plumber for radiators and pipework, an electrician for power supply issues, or a smart thermostat installer if your controls are the culprit, Checkatrade can match you with the right one for the job.
How to prevent heating problems in future
Prevention beats a cold house every time. A few simple habits go a long way:
Book annual servicing with a professional, ideally before winter sets in
Bleed your radiators regularly and check pressure every few months
Keep an eye on your smart thermostat app for missed schedules or connection drops
Insulate exposed pipework, especially anything running through a loft or garage, to reduce the risk of freezing

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Checklist before you call an engineer
Quick checks before you book a callout
How to find the right tradesperson
If your heating fault is beyond a DIY fix, look for a Gas Safe registered engineer for anything boiler-related, or a plumber for radiator and pipework issues.
Checking reviews and past job history helps you choose someone with the right experience for your specific system.
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FAQs
There are many possible reasons, ranging from easy fixes like an incorrect timer setting to professional-only repairs like a burst pipe or failed circulating pump. Working through the causes above in order will usually narrow it down quickly.
This usually points to a fault with the heating side of your system rather than the boiler as a whole: often a stuck diverter valve, a closed zone valve, or a faulty pump. Check your settings first, and call a Gas Safe engineer if the issue persists.
This is often down to radiator problems: trapped air, a stuck valve, or a blockage. Check for cold radiators and try bleeding them before assuming it's a bigger fault.
This is commonly caused by a stuck TRV on one radiator, trapped air in that part of the system, or a faulty zone valve controlling heat to that area.
Regularly topping up the pressure is a sign of a leak somewhere in the system, not a one-off issue. A professional plumber or heating engineer can locate and repair the leak.
Yes, smart thermostats like Hive, Nest, and tado are a common cause of "phantom" heating faults. Check the app for schedule changes, connectivity issues, or an accidental override before assuming the boiler itself is at fault.
No. One reset after checking the basics is fine, but repeatedly resetting a boiler that keeps locking out can hide a developing fault. If it happens more than once, stop and book a repair.
Costs vary entirely by cause: a pressure top-up costs nothing, while a new pump or valve is a paid repair. See our boiler repair cost guide for typical UK price ranges.

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